Siena – City of Enchantment

Siena, Italy is a well-preserved city of enchantment and wonder.  It’s first settlers date back to 900-400 BC.  Other than upgrading the store fronts to gelato joints, not much has changed.  The amount of effort put into keeping this city as it was hundreds of years ago — astonishing!  It truly is something right out of a fairy tale.

Hoofing Around the City

Although the main streets are crowded with tourists, it’s easy to find less populated side streets were the locals roam.  The city can be confusing to get around at first, but soon you will discover that you’re never truly lost.  Everything flows back into the Piazza del Campo, a large piazza where all the locals get together to hangout and/or see events.  From the Piazza, everything within the city walls can be walked to in about ten minutes.  If you’re a runner/biker looking to explore less populated routes, there is an abundance of beautiful country roads just outside the city as well.

Photo taken from our AirBnB balcony

The Contrade

Per Wikipedia:

A contrada (plural: contrade) is a district, or a ward, within an Italian city. The most well-known contrade are probably the 17 contrade of Siena whose representatives race on horseback in the Palio di Siena, run twice each year. Each is named after an animal or symbol, and each has a long history and complicated heraldic and semi-mythological associations.

Not only is each contrada its own district, each has its own museum, social hall, and fountain.  Finding all seventeen fountains becomes a magical treasure hunt and offers an exciting way to see the city.  These small, tight notched communities within the city of Siena gives this large metropolitan area a small-town aura.

What to see while in Siena

Churches Galore!

There is an abundance of awe-inspiring Churches to explore from the Duomo di Siena to the Basilica Cateriniana San Domenico and many lesser known Churches scattered around the city.  Make sure to dress appropriately for the Churches; men can’t wear shorts, ladies can’t wear short skirts or anything revealing shoulders.

Museums and other attractions

Other than the Churches, there are many museums to venture into as well.  If you’re already seeing the Duomo di Siena, I suggest getting the OPA Pass which includes everything surrounding the Duomo as well.  The Santa Maria della Scala is worth the cost alone.  For a more detailed list of attractions, I invite you to visit the site of my favorite travel blogger, Megan Collier – What You’ve Been Missing.

Nighttime Strolls

Taking a stroll through the city after the sun goes down makes you feel as if you are living in a different era.  At times, you’ll feel as if you have the city to yourselves as many tourists are already off to the bed.  The city is completely safe, so don’t be afraid to venture down dark alleys to reveal the magic this city offers.  Also, make sure to look up every once in a while to view all the intricate details of the buildings above.

Where to Stay

Accommodations vary from budget AirBnB’s to five star hotels.  Personally, I always prefer an AirBnB equipped with a kitchen.  Not only does this keep cost down for the accommodation itself, but gives the ability to prepare meals during your stay.  However, I understand the comfort of a hotel with room service, housekeeping, and a flexible check-in/check-out time.  My rule of thumb is if it’s only one night, hotel; extended stays, AirBnB.

Photo taken from our AirBnB balcony

Giving personal information

Please note that is it Italian law for guests to provide personal information like address, date of birth, and passport number to their hosts/hostels/hotels.  Hosts take a huge risk by not asking for this information which comes with hefty fine if caught.  However, since this information is required, I would suggest taking extra care when choosing an accommodation.

Eating out on the town

Choosing a restaurant

This is why you came —to eat!  Within the city, there are many, many restaurants to choose from.  There are couple of resources I like to use to select a restaurant.  First, TripAdvisor is king when it comes to restaurant reviews in Europe.  Don’t completely trust TripAdvisior though.  Ask yourself, does it look like there are locals at the restaurant, or mainly tourists?  The locals know the best places to eat, so follow their laid.  Also, if it looks trendy, in my experience that equates to underwhelming meals at overpriced rates.  However, if the restaurant looks like it hasn’t been remodeled for a couple of centuries, you’re in for a treat.

What to expect

Unless you’re at a pizza joint, menus are typically split up into antipasta – starters,  primi piatti - main course, secondi piatti - second courses, contorni – sides, and dolci -desserts. 

Primi piatti is where you will find all your pastas.  You can’t go wrong with gnocchetti or risotto which you are most likely familiar.  A pasta special to Siena is pici — a thick pasta that resembles fat spaghetti.  Most places will have pici cacio e pepe (pici with cheese and pepper) — sure to be a delight.

Primi piatti is where you’ll find meat entrees.  Admittedly, I haven’t explored too much since the main course is always enough, but anything with wild boar is going to be amazing.

Dolci for me is often tiramisu — no one restaurant does it the same.  Another treat is almond cookies.  If they bring small glasses and a bottle of brown-tinted liquid in it, you’re in for an experience.  This is vin santo, a 16% dessert wine.  It is absolutely delightful, so don’t shy away!

Antipasta and contorni are self-explanatory, so I won’t waste your time going into detail.

As far as drinks go, I strongly recommend ordering the house wine which typically comes in half or full liters.  If you want water, unless you ask for tap water, this is an extra charge.  I recommend ordering sparkling water — it’s okay guys, nobody will judge you whilst in Italy so indulge!

Eating on a budget

Want to enjoy Italiano but are on a tight budget?  Meal prices can be kept low by shopping the local grocery store, Conad City.  Looking for a quick Italian meal at the quarter of the price of restaurants, and have a kitchen to cook?  Here’s an easy Italiano diner!  Pick a Conad brand pasta of your choosing, and pair with a Conad brand sauce like the Pesto Rosso or Pesto alla Genovese.  Add a freshly made baguette, and a bottle of wine (hint: the best & cheapest wines are on the bottom shelves) —amazing Italiano cuisine — prego!  Oh, and the store-bought pizzas are amazing as well!

Other options

Although not an Italian cuisine, I cannot leave out how good the Indian food is ANYWHERE in Europe.  If it has “kebob” in the name, no burgers on the menu (this is key), and the staff are Indian themselves — prepare to have your mind blown!  These are fast food style restaurants, so expect to leave with a full wallet as well as a full belly.

Best places to eat

Looking for a couple “go to” restaurants?  Here a list of my top choices in a couple of categories!

Sit Down Dinner
Osteria Il Carroccio - Via Casato Di Sotto, 32

Quick Lunch
Prètto Prosciutteria - Via dei Termini, 4

Sit Down Lunch
Osteria Trombicche - Via delle Terme, 66

Quick Pizza
Le Prinipesse - Via S. Pietro, 49

Sit Down Pizza
Il Pomodorino - Via Camporegio, 13

Gelato
Gelateria Kopakabana - Via dei Rossi, 52

Indian (Kebob)
Siena Chicken Kebab - Via Camollia, 23

Drinks with a view
Vivace Pizza & Griglia - Via Stalloreggi, 62

Transportation

Getting to and from Siena can be challenging as there is no airport within the city.  The two main modes of transportation are train and bus from Rome or Florence.  Taking the bus is the most direct route of getting into the city.  The bus schedule is difficult to find online, so your best bet is to just go the bus station with your baggage and ask for the next available bus.  Buses run so often, you won’t be waiting too long.  Siena isn’t very big, so no matter where your bus drops you off in the city, it won’t be far from your accommodation.

Although I can’t promise these links will be relevant when you are traveling, here are some bus company options at the time of this writing:

Siena/Rome

• Baltour
• Flixbus

Siena/Florence

• Tiemme SpA
• Look for routes under extraurban
• 131R A is Siena -> Florence (rapid route w/ less stops)
• 131R R is Florence -> Siena (rapid route w/ less stops)

Breathtaking Siena

Siena is a breathtaking city with a lot to offer to anyone wishing to explore it.  Ask enough of your friends, and chances are you know somebody that has been to Siena.  More than likely, they will exclaim “I love Siena!” and will be happy to give you a more intimate viewpoint of the city.  I strongly recommend visiting this enchanting city yourself, as words cannot explain all its amazement.

Photos!

For a large array of random photos taken around the city, I invite you to visit my photo album Siena – City of Enchantment.  Of special interest, you’ll find several 360 degree photos!  Prego!